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61
Parts and Service / rubnning rich
« Last post by guzzied on October 01, 2022, 11:55:52 am »
my NF seems to be running rich; The spark plug sooted up and stopped sparking until I cleaned it; Is there a mixture adjustment on the carb or could it be a worn needle?   Many thanks for any info,
62
Engine and Transmission / Re: NF Compression test figures.
« Last post by Rob vW on September 21, 2022, 09:59:17 pm »
Have a look & see if the cylinder head is leaking. The bike will run, but you will get a distinctive clack at the point of leakage.

Nip up the 4 big bolts to 32nm. Ride the bike. Simples!

You might want to check the valve clearances while you are at it.
63
Newbies say hello / Re: newbie of a certain age
« Last post by banquo on September 17, 2022, 10:45:12 pm »
Hi Warna, and sorry for the VERY long delay in welcoming you to our forum.
Sadly, there's not much traffic on here these days, and so I do not check for posts as often as I should....
The plug won't be black because of the heat grade of the plug. B6 or B7 are normal choices, but sooting can be caused by many things.
In my experience over the past 20 years, the most likely causes are the rubber sealing face of the enrichener plunger, but the worst cases have actually been caused by ignition problems.
The last two times I have had serious sooting problems have been caused by the coil breaking down (I replaced it with a Lucas from BL Mini) and failure of the condenser.
Hope that's some help in diagnosing your problems, and apologies again for the delay!
64
Engine and Transmission / NF Compression test figures.
« Last post by banquo on September 17, 2022, 07:17:13 pm »
Hi Il Ferrone, and sorry for the delay in replying.
Unfortunately, most people have deserted the forum in favour of Facebook, so there are not many people to answer you.
I have no idea what the compression figures should be, but your numbers do seem very low, and the increase with oil does suggest an issue with rings or bore, as I think you are suggesting. However, I don't see that being related to noise.
Excessive noise is most likely valve gear: mine was a worn inlet rocker, almost inevitable if you don't have the extra oiling modification.
I'd suggest you start by lifting the rocker box, and checking the condition of the rocker face.
See my post on that for details.
Black smoke? Check the face on the enrichener plunger. If perished, it will allow excess fuel, especially at low rpm.
65
Newbies say hello / photos
« Last post by banquo on September 17, 2022, 07:03:55 pm »
Sorry for delay in replying. There's so little traffic on here now, I don't visit as often as I should..... :-[
This (free) forum hosting service doesn't support photos.
It's necessary to upload your photos to a service that supports sharing (e.g. Flickr) and include a link to your photos in your post.
If you click on the icon for 'insert image' when composing your post, you can paste the link into your post
66
Newbies say hello / photos
« Last post by guzzied on September 16, 2022, 03:57:03 pm »
I keep trying to posy photos of my new to me NF, but keep getting "supprimé"   what am I doing wrong?
67
Engine and Transmission / NF Compression test figures.
« Last post by Il Feronne on August 29, 2022, 06:13:19 pm »
Hi All.
Sorry for the length of posting but as a newbie I'm as ignorant as can be.
My newly acquired NF has developed a noise that at first I thought it was noisy tappet(s), but now suspect the "clacking" is lower down in the cylinder.
New to this wonderful old Militare and having only covered approx 250 miles since collecting the beast, today I decided to perform a compression test to try and diagnose whether it's piston ring(s) or valve guide(s) may be the culprit.
I understand that no engine likes to sit not run for long periods and these engines can be heavy on exhaust valve seat and guide
So......
The compression test results were:
Warm=60/65psi. For all three tests.
Warm with a shot of oil in the barrel=105/110psi for all three.
Seems a little extreme to me and on my other engines would suggest a broken or stuck ring, or very worn bore. But with less than 8K kms what would you far more experienced folk day?
It doesn't use oil that I can determine, but I haven't put enough miles on it as yet to know for sure. It does have smoke from the exhaust whilst idling and reving, but probably more black than blue! It does run rich. Better now the needle is on 2nd notch, but Spark plug very black.
So before I strip top end or do more damage riding it whilst weather lasts, I'm seeking advice.
I'm not looking to up the rather Conservative horse power, or make it something it wasn't designed to be. Making the head ready for E10 fuel wouldn't be a bad thing though. I'm using Valve master plus at the moment. Hope that hasn't been a reason for the smoke and noise????
Any help and comments most appreciated.

68
Newbies say hello / newbie of a certain age
« Last post by warna on July 31, 2022, 07:03:35 am »
Hello, I am Warna, (male, to prevent misunderstandings) and I own a Falcone militare of 1971. Quite old, but not as old as I am (74).
I own the bike for some 20 years and as it resides in a French farm some 350 kms from my home in Amsterdam, it is not ridden regularly. I also own a Matchless (G3LS from 1954) and a Honda dirtbike (XLR250 form the nineties).
The Guzzi always served me very well, but there is a thing that bothers me: the spark plug is always black and sooty, and I have to clean the plug quite often. So the mixture is too rich, I suppose. I cleaned the carburetor several times, and sticked to the standard settings. Maybe lower the needle might be a solution? It is now in the middle position. Or a different spark plug? It now is a NGK BP7ES.
Anyway, great to discover this forum dedicated to the Italian beast, and I hope to return here evrey now and then.
69
Engine and Transmission / Re: Engine Cam Timing Help
« Last post by banquo on July 29, 2022, 12:40:18 am »
That’s good to hear: glad you got it sorted out 😎
70
Engine and Transmission / Re: Engine Cam Timing Help
« Last post by Tiny Tim on July 28, 2022, 11:19:58 pm »
I did get it sorted out. I thought about the cam timing and from riding It knew the cam wasn't timed correctly. I did however find the specification on the degrees in which the vales open. I was able to put a dial gauge on the intake rocker arm and could note when it started to open. I put a degree wheel on the flywheel and set the piston at TDC and zeroed the degree wheel at that point with a simple paint mark on the engine case. Having zero I moved the piston until the valve started to open and found the cam was one tooth off. I reset the cam and its running great again. It just took a couple nights thinking about it and after I using the degree wheel it was fixed quickly. Thanks for your consideration! By the way I marked the cam this time so it won't happen again

TT     
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