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31
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by banquo on June 29, 2024, 11:12:57 am »
the sleeve was seized in the bushes, rusted solid and the cupped washers weren't refitted by the previous owner (and the bike's restorer). Instead he took up the endfloat with with flat washers that were a bit thick for the job. The only way that swingarm was moving was on the spindle and that wore away a bit of clearance inside the frame, letting everything get loose.

Yes: we had another owner whose assembly had rusted up solid, and had a similar wear inside the frame plates…

Good job getting it apart. I can understand why you left the old bushes in, as it’s an awful job getting them out…
32
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by smellybeard on June 13, 2024, 03:13:43 pm »
I've reassembled the swing arm without new bushes or sleeve.
On the advice of an older Manx Norton hand, I've shimmed up the end float. (The design of the assembly and the construction of the swingarm itself is remarkably like a featherbed Manx.)
With the grease nipple in place, this should suffice for the limited use it gets these days. Time will tell if I need to replace the bushes; if I ever do, they will be bronze.

I'd regard the addition of a grease nipple and regular greasing as an absolutely essential modification to this machine even if it is in apparently perfect order.
33
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by smellybeard on June 07, 2024, 04:10:33 pm »
Hmmmm....

Some silliness on my part: the swing arm wasn't worn, the bolt was loose.

...but why was it loose?
Possibly because the sleeve was seized in the bushes, rusted solid and the cupped washers weren't refitted by the previous owner (and the bike's restorer). Instead he took up the endfloat with with flat washers that were a bit thick for the job. The only way that swingarm was moving was on the spindle and that wore away a bit of clearance inside the frame, letting everything get loose. I haven't ridden the bike regularly in 15 years.

Anyway, the first item of business was to fit a grease nipple and fill it up with grease. It was after that I discovered the loose spindle. Tightened that up and took it for a run up and down a gravel lane. No suspension worth talking about.
Two: take the swinging arm out - which I managed without taking the mudguard off. There are little squares welded to the inside of the frame, shims where the spindle bolt holes are.
Three: pressed the sleeve out. I pushed it back and forth a few mm to begin with, giving it a squirt of penetrating oil each time and then got it moving about a third of the way. I cleaned off the exposed surface with a file and gave it a smear of grease and pushed it back out the other side. It's pitted but the centre wasn't rusty. It was really tight to start with and I had to use the long handle on my press. It fell out when I got to about two thirds through.
34
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by smellybeard on May 30, 2024, 03:04:11 pm »
Thanks,
Works starts tomorrow.
35
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by banquo on May 30, 2024, 10:14:50 am »
A press might be helpful, but locating the swinging arm perfectly in line and adequately supported against the ten tons might be a challenge. One of the other members took his to an engineering shop, who tried and failed to press the axle out. IIRC they ended up drilling it out, which must have been a challenge.
Let’s assume for now that you can press out the axle: at least you have the flanges of the bushes to support the load while you do that.
However, once the axle is out, you’re still left with the two bushes inside the tube, and at least the first of these will be impossible to press out unless you are able to make some kind of expanding collet press tool, that can be slid through the top bush, and then expanded to press on the lower.
And at that point, you have nothing with which to support the swinging arm, as the bush flanges are the same OD as the tube… Mine was in a vice, and by the time I finally got the bush removed, I had cut a slot in the web stiffener, which was the primary reaction to the applied impact.
Hopefully, you can manage to dissolve much of the rust first, and hopefully, that will mean they will come out more easily. You might even be lucky enough that they have previously been replaced, and reassembled with the grease that is so sadly lacking in anything assembled in Mandello!
I wish you good luck, and look forward to hearing of a successful outcome.
36
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by smellybeard on May 29, 2024, 06:07:12 pm »
If doing another, and I do have another, I might drill for the grease nipple first, and try to inject some rust dissolving fluid into the annulus before attempting disassembly.
Excellent suggestion.
My (red) paint is in excellent condition, so I want to avoid as much abuse as I can. Heat is out of bounds. I do have a 10 tonne press and making up tools on the lathe to fit the job is also an option.
37
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by banquo on May 29, 2024, 04:28:05 pm »
All fine so far, and I haven’t come up with anything better in the ideas department. If doing another, and I do have another, I might drill for the grease nipple first, and try to inject some rust dissolving fluid into the annulus before attempting disassembly. It was very, very brutal…
I’ll wish you good luck: hopefully you won’t need it!
38
Frame, Suspension and Tinware / Re: Swinging Arm issues
« Last post by smellybeard on May 29, 2024, 02:38:34 pm »
So, four years later how is it working?
Would you change the way you did anything?

I ask as I'm about to undertake the same job.
39
Engine and Transmission / Re: engine bogging and miss firing at full throtle openings
« Last post by banquo on November 22, 2023, 02:08:27 pm »
Hello my 1971 nuovo falcone runs great ,starts and runs great except if i try to give it full throttle it then bogs down and miss fires until you reduce the throttle opening , you can slowly feather the throttle until a higher speed is reached .am i correct in thinking carburetor issue .it has the standard delorto carb and is totally stock 
regards Oliver

Morning Oliver, and sorry for the long delay in replying. The forum is so infrequently used these days, I don't check as often as I should.... :-[
I have experienced exactly the same as you, and for two separate but interconnected reasons. The first was when I decided to protect what was left of my rusty silencer, and fitted another and much more restrictive pipe: the second was when I replaced the stock air filter with a fake K&N style conical filter. In both cases, the result was a mixture that was too rich on full throttle. I was especially surprised by the air filter, as I would have expected a cotton filter to be less restrictive than the stock paper filter. However, many years later, I discovered that the stock filter was sealing so badly, it was effectively doing nothing at all....
If you have the standard silencer, and the standard air filter, then it may be worth considering altering the size of the main jet. You would think that then engine picking up when the throttle reduced would be an indication of weak running (reducing throttle reduces the amount of air, so you would think richens the mixture) but I'm pretty sure that mine was running rich.
From the manual:
Choke: 29mm diameter
Slide: 50
Emulsion tube: 265 P
Main jet: 132 (NB, Mick Walker's book says 122?)
Pilot jet: 50
Needle: V 10 2nd notch from top
Idle screw: 1.25 turns out

Good luck!
40
Hey Oliver , i had a similar issue with mine years ago , starting and running fine  but would have to back off the throttle and feather it as you say to gain a bit more speed ,but once i had come to terms with the relatively slow  top speed  i found  i was quite happy plodding along and just enjoy the views!  It got worse on a longer ride  once ,and it seemed to be running a bit smokey , it was  just a matter of stopping and readjusting the  idle  screw on the carb .I think the machine vibrates that much it was  winding that adjustment  screw out  just a tiny amount as i travelled along . It certainly improved  by winding it back to run a little leaner ... all the best  with yours  and  safe travels . Ric
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